What we saw, where we stayed, and what we’d do differently on our clockwise loop around Ireland in May 2025.

Ireland 2025

We looped along the coastline of Ireland, checking all the classic must-do things: pubs, castles, national parks, and ancient ruins. During our twenty-three-day trip, we collected some travel tips, which we feel obliged to pass along. We also took hundreds of pictures, and we promise not to share all of them. However, we do have a few we’d like to share, along with a couple of stories.

We originally planned to take this trip in May 2020. Obviously, that didn’t happen. Delta is our carrier of choice, which meant we flew in and out of Dublin. You may want to consider Shannon Airport if you are looking to get to the west coast of Ireland without the bustle of the big city.

Since Chuck and I were traveling with four other people, we rented two mid-sized cars because, apparently, one large van is more expensive and much scarier on a rural Irish road. (Chuck had nightmares. We went with cars.) Two cars also meant we had to park two cars and make sure both ended up at the same endpoint. More about this in the travel tips.

While in Dublin, we stayed in hotels; otherwise, we used Airbnb rentals (typically for three nights each). Hindsight is 20/20, they say. If we were to do it again, we would have looked at hotels for shorter stays in Galway and Portrush.

Chuck was our elected tour guide. He tried to tell us he was no Rick Steves, which is true. Rick might give you historical context and train schedules. Chuck just says, “Whoa, this looks cool, let’s stop.” We ignored his attempts to wiggle out of the role. He deserves a medal or possibly sainthood.

Ireland Trip by City 

We generally stayed 3 nights in each city except where noted. 

• Dublin (Flew into Dublin Airport, stayed two nights)
• Waterford (didn’t stay overnight)
• Kinsale 
• Dingle 
• Galway (Four Nights) 
• Sligo 
• Letterkenny
• Portrush
• Dublin (Stayed one night and flew out of Dublin Airport) 

Travel Tips for Ireland 

Be prepared for instant coffee, it is generally what you’ll find, although we found a drip coffee pot in one, if not two, of our Airbnbs. My first sip of instant coffee on this trip immediately transported me to our first trip to Scotland in 2012. 

Even Rick Steves says “No” to the “Dynamic Currency Conversion.” This is when you are billed in US dollars, rather than the currency of the country where you are currently visiting. A waiter in Glaway also mentioned the currency thing. 

Another Rick Steves “hack,” if you want smaller bills from an ATM, ask for an uneven amount like $375.

If you are renting a car, you can’t go wrong with Newway Car Hire. The price includes full coverage, which you will want when driving on the “L” roads (more on those later).

Speaking of driving, be sure to download your maps ahead of time. There are spots without cell service, and having your maps downloaded for offline use will keep you from driving in circles on farm lanes.

Ireland Trip Highlights

Here’s a city-by-city rundown of the trip highlights. 

Dublin

Our first taste of Ireland began with a walking tour booked through WithLocals, and we seriously lucked out with Ruairi as our guide. He knew exactly how to read the room, so our very first stop was at Ha’Penny Bar, where Greg learned how to pour a proper pint of Guinness. Strong start.

Of course, we had to stop at Rory’s Fishing Tackle, made famous by Amy Winehouse. She was apparently drawn in by a shirt that read:

“If you want to be happy for a day – get drunk, for a week – get married, for life – go fishing.”

I’m not sure I agree, but I got a shirt anyway. 

Other Dublin highlights included a guided tour of Trinity College and the Book of Kells Experience, as well as visits to Christ Church Cathedral and Dublin Castle. (For the record, the Book of Kells was much smaller than I expected. Still impressive. Just… compact.)

And no first-timer’s trip to Dublin would be complete without a visit to the Guinness Storehouse. Touristy? Sure. But it’s still worth it.

Restaurant recommendations? Yes, please.

We loved Boxty and Bull & Castle for dinner, and Irish Potato Cake for brunch.

Hands down, the shepherd’s pie at Boxty was my favorite meal of the entire trip. Maybe it was because it was one of our first meals in Ireland. Maybe it was because I was starving. But honestly, I think it’s because we found the best right out of the gate. Rich, comforting, flavorful, it set the bar high.

Oh, and if you’re curious about what exactly boxty is, I found this great video on their website that explains it all. Skip over to their homepage and head straight to the video—Boxty, explained.

We’ve got many more pictures in our Dublin Photo Gallery. 

Waterford 

If you’re pressed for time, you can probably skip Waterford. The highlight for me was picking up a lovely pair of earrings and a thank-you gift for our neighbors, who were watching our house, at the end of the Waterford Crystal Factory Tour.

Before we left, we squeezed in a quick city tour with Jack Burtchaell. Let’s just say he was no Ruairi, and he made it pretty clear he didn’t care whether we were enjoying ourselves or not. But hey, they do have a cool replica of a Viking ship, so there’s that.

Kinsale

I’ve got a few food recommendations. Dinner at the Speckled Door was where all the locals apparently ate. It was a bit more touristy at Jim Edwards, but it was still good. I went for the special, chicken wrapped in ham with stuffing, plus mashed potatoes and veggies. It was warm, comforting, and totally hit the spot.

We practiced “splitting the G” at The Spaniard Inn, which basically means sipping your pint with such precision that the foam line rests right through the middle of the letter G in Guinness. A true Irish art form.

One of the Kinsale highlights was the cow crossing. Pure Irish chaos and charm, the kind of moment that feels like a rite of passage. We waited, we laughed, and we took way too many photos.

But the real curveball came at the Cork Racecourse in Mallow, where the trip took a delightful turn into the unexpected. Chuck, our trusty travel planner, suggested the races, and I didn’t hesitate. “Sign me up,” I said, never one to turn down a little healthy gambling.

We went all-in on the experience, splurging on premium tickets that included a three-course meal and a dress code (no T-shirts allowed). People were dressed to the nines—vests, sport coats, heels, the works.

We didn’t win big, but it felt like a jackpot anyway. And while I’m sure a few Americans were tucked away in the corners, we weren’t rubbing shoulders with tourists. Instead, we chatted with Irish families who welcomed us like old friends. It was real, warm, and wonderfully authentic.

We wrapped up our stay in Kinsale with a walk from Scilly to Charles Fort along the scenic Scilly Trail, also known as the “Trail of Health,” which made us feel slightly better about all the pub food.

The guided tour at Charles Fort included an unexpected bonus: we learned the origin of the word potluck. 

On the drive from Kinsale to Dingle, we made a stop at Blarney Castle. Yes, we kissed the stone. Sometimes you’ve to suck it up, buttercup, and accept that you are a tourist. If you stop, get there before it opens! The lines are no joke. 

We have more pictures of both Waterford and Kinsale in our gallery. 

Dingle 

Now, I’m not a practicing Catholic, but I’ll occasionally skim Vatican headlines. While in Ireland, I stumbled on a quote from Pope Leo that stuck in my head like an earworm:

“But then I discovered something: God doesn’t shout. God whispers.”

That quote echoed in my mind during our visit to The Great Blasket Island. There were no pints, no tour buses, no noise. Just sheep, birds, seals, and our tour guide, a serious, soft-spoken guy with a peaceful presence. He reminded me of a priest, and maybe that’s why Pope Leo’s words kept looping in my brain.

I didn’t hike down to the beach to see the seals, but Chuck did. We agreed his tuna report was enough. “They stink like an old can of tuna.” So yeah, no regrets on skipping that one.

Sometimes you can’t help but shout. Sorry, Pope Leo, I found myself yelling, “There’s one!” A puffin, flapping its little wings like mad. Then I spotted more. Dozens. Hundreds. They were nesting on the Blasket’s outer islands, Cathedral Rock. I didn’t even know I had a life list, but now it has a puffin on it.

Fun fact: a group of puffins is called a puffinary. I love that.

On our way along Slea Head, we hit up West Kerry Brewery and wandered around the Beehive Huts.

Driving that stretch was an adventure in itself with cliffside views, stone walls, and sheep playing chicken with the car. Classic Ireland.

Talk about classic, at the Prehistoric Beehive Huts, the ticket taker said, “You can climb into the tunnel where they’d store their food,” and I knew Chuck would be all over it. Sure enough, he shimmied in like Indiana Jones with a GoPro. No hesitation.

We stopped at West Kerry Brewery for a pint or two, where a Disney Film crew was filming. The space has a cool vibe but there must be more, so I did a little digging, “Not only was Beoir Chorcha Dhuibhne (The West Kerry Brewery) the first craft brewery in Kerry, but it was the first microbrewery in Ireland to be founded and managed by a woman, and Adrienne continues to run the brewery today.”

For Angie’s birthday, we celebrated with chocolate cake and pizza at the Blue Zone.

To my astonishment, Chuck said, “This is the best pizza I have ever eaten.” Yes, it was a total win. 

We ended up drinking with some Americans at a few pubs around town. One family shared their encounter with Rick Steves, which was hilarious and exactly the kind of thing that happens in a pub over pints.

Foxy John’s was a standout, and yes, it really has a hardware counter. We also hit Kennedy’s and Dick Macks, which had the perfect mix of charm, Guinness, and whiskey.

We have more photos of Dingle in our gallery. 

Galway 

On our way into Galway, we made a few unforgettable stops. First up was Connor Pass–narrow, winding, and absolutely breathtaking.

It’s the kind of road where you grip the wheel a little tighter and mutter a few prayers, but the views are more than worth it. After that adrenaline rush, we headed to the Cliffs of Moher. 

Maybe it was the leftover adrenaline from driving Connor Pass, but the Cliffs of Moher just didn’t do it for me. It was hazy, so the views (and the photos) were kind of blah. The main trail was closed for repairs. We later heard two people had died there, which is heartbreaking, and the whole area was absolutely swarming with people. Total mob scene. I know, I know, gasp! Sacrilege to say it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Just speaking my truth. And yes, I realize I may have just been banned from the Irish Tourism Board’s Christmas card list.

Somewhere after checking out the Poulnabrone Dolmen in Burren National Park, we got completely turned around.

That’s when we had our first true encounter with the “L” roads in Ireland, short for “Local Roads.” These are narrow, curvy farm lanes that, in the U.S., we’d probably call two-tracks. Meeting an oncoming car, or worse, a large farm tractor, on one of these roads will shave years off your life.

I didn’t have the presence of mind to take a video or even breathe normally as I clutched the car door, silently praying we wouldn’t die. We were like panicked hamsters in a Habitrail, trapped on a one-lane road from hell, flanked by Jurassic-sized rhododendrons that looked ready to swallow the car whole.

Eventually, we made it to Galway in one piece.

One of our favorite detours from the city was the hour-long drive to Sean’s Bar in Athlone. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, it’s the oldest bar in Ireland.

The site dates back to 900 AD. While they may not have been pouring Guinness back then, it seems this ford on the River Shannon has always been a place to pause for a pint or three. We found a cozy nook inside, soaked in the knick-knacks and history, and reluctantly pulled ourselves away to make it back for a soccer match in Galway.

The game? Galway versus Sligo. I think they’re rivals. Honestly, I just went with it. Other than what I’ve picked up watching Ted Lasso, I know next to nothing about soccer. But the crowd was into it. At one point, a Sligo player took a hit to the shins and dropped like a sack of potatoes. I swear the Galway fans were shouting, “Wanker! Wanker!” Thanks, Galway, for delivering that authentic Ted Lasso moment.

As fun as the game was, a favorite part was actually getting to the stadium. Chuck struck up a conversation with a guy wearing Sligo colors, and they chatted the entire walk to the stands, probably a good quarter mile. I don’t know if Rick Steves would include a soccer match on his Ireland itinerary, but I’m pretty sure he’d approve of spending time with the locals.

Now, if Rick Steves were your guide, you’d get the full backstory. With Chuck, you get: “Hey, a castle! Let’s go.”

That spontaneous spirit took us on a little road trip south of Galway, with stops at Kilmacduagh Abbey (eerie and beautiful), Coole Park (gorgeous trails through the woods), and finally Thoor Ballylee—Yeats’ actual summer home from 1921 to 1929.

The 15th-century tower was both impressive and deeply atmospheric. The staff at the site were amazing, super knowledgeable, and friendly. We learned that Yeats was fascinated by mysticism and the occult. In fact, one of the tower’s rooms was used for seances.

Yeats believed he was communicating with a Norman soldier. We didn’t feel any ghostly presence, but we did enjoy a lovely tea and fruit bread snack after the tour (included with the entry fee!). A sweet, slightly spooky, and totally charming afternoon.

We have more photos of Galway in our gallery. 

Sligo 

On our way to Sligo, we made a few memorable stops. First up was the Quiet Man Bridge—yes, that bridge made famous by John Wayne in The Quiet Man. We couldn’t pass it up without snapping a few photos of Greg doing his best classic film pose. Totally worth the stop.

Then it was on to Connemara National Park, which absolutely delivered on the sweeping green landscapes and rugged mountain views I always imagined Ireland would have. The Twelve Bens towered in the distance while sheep grazed like they owned the place. Only Chuck had the heart to tackle the Upper Diamond Trail. The rest of us opted for a more relaxed guided nature walk.

The rest of us opted for a more relaxed guided nature walk.

We wrapped up the day with a visit to Kylemore Abbey. Part museum, part home to a community of Benedictine nuns, the abbey is as majestic as it is peaceful. We arrived just in time for a history talk, which was packed with details about the estate’s origins, and a fun fact, much of what’s now Connemara National Park was once part of the abbey grounds. All in all, a lovely day, as they say.

Following Rick Steves’ playbook, we popped into the Sligo Tourist Information Center to get the lay of the land. Big shoutout to Pascal and Sean! Pascal was an absolute ray of sunshine, bubbling with enthusiasm not just for Sligo but for Donegal and beyond. Sean shared a bit about the legendary Second Battle of Moytura—an epic from Irish folklore that, according to him, was introduced to George Lucas by Joseph Campbell and helped inspire Star Wars. If you’re looking for a driver or guide while in Ireland, Sean offers his services through Sligo Welcome Ambassador. (And yes, we got his card.)

Pascal and Sean both insisted we check out the Sligo Abbey.

We did, and it didn’t disappoint. 

From there, we set off for the coast. We drove out to Mullaghmore Head and made a quick stop at the Creevykeel Court Tomb, one of those ancient sites that feels both grounded and mysterious.

One of the most stunning moments of the trip came at Downpatrick Head. That sea stack, Dún Briste, is jaw-dropping. In my humble opinion? It blows the Cliffs of Moher out of the water. There, I said it again. Sorry, Irish Tourism Board.

It just felt so much wilder and more magical, no crowds, no chaos, just you, the wind, and the Atlantic. We kept a respectful distance from the edge, because no one wants to be that tourist, but the seabirds swirling overhead and the raw beauty of the place made it feel like something straight out of a fantasy novel.

And yes, we sang “Happy Birthday” to Angie’s dad right there at the edge of the world. When he got the recording, he said it was the first time he had been sung to from Ireland. 

Just up the road, we visited Céide Fields, which may be the oldest known stone-walled fields in the world, dating back approximately 6,000 years.

We lucked out. The tour was starting as we arrived. Our guide explained how these ancient fields had been discovered under layers of bog, perfectly preserved. Even more mind-blowing? DNA testing revealed the people who farmed here had migrated from Iran. Imagine the courage it took to leave everything and sail into the unknown to make a life on this wild coastline.

Oh, and one last gem: Greg told someone at the Céide Fields visitor center that he was Michael Davitt’s great-grandson. Which was shocking, because it’s absolutely not true.

We have more photos of Sligo in our gallery. 

Letterkenny

On our way to Letterkenny, we made a scenic stop at Slieve League. Nowhere on the website did it mention the climb, or that it would cost $10 to park. We ate lobster rolls and sipped Cokes before tackling the surprise 1.5-mile hike from the viewpoint back to the car.

While sipping our Cokes, we overheard someone say, “We enjoyed two whole days of sunshine.” I wanted to chime in, “We’ve enjoyed two weeks and two days of fabulous weather,” but decided to play it cool.

Rick Steves didn’t have much to say about Slieve League, so we weren’t sure what to expect. But even with the hike and sticker shock, the verdict was: “It was fabulous.”

We made a few other worthwhile stops along the way, including Fanad Head Lighthouse, which is postcard-perfect and perched dramatically on the coastline.

We also stopped at Doe Castle, the former stronghold of the MacSweeney Clan. A quiet, almost haunting place with serious medieval vibes.

Then we hit Horn Head, but it was completely socked in with fog. Chuck, ever the scout, reported that there were signs at the lookout warning about ticks, which somehow made it even more mysterious and slightly creepy.

Another recommended food stop: The Travellers Inn in Milford, County Donegal. Cozy, welcoming, and the kind of place you wish you could transplant to your hometown.

At some point, we toured Donegal Castle, where we unexpectedly scored complimentary tickets. As far as castles go, I’d give it a solid 9 out of 10. The self-guided tour through the history of this 15th-century stronghold was better than most. It was engaging, informative, and well laid out.

Then came one of those moments that would’ve made both Rick Steves and Anthony Bourdain proud. We found ourselves at Wilkin’s Bar and Lounge in Church Hill, just west of Letterkenny.

James was holding down the bar and pouring a perfect pint of Guinness. Greg, true to form, had James chatting in no time. I think he may have invited him to Thanksgiving dinner, but I can’t be sure.

At first, we were mildly concerned that James was also running the kitchen. But then Victor Wilkins walked in, full of charm and wearing a brilliant smile. He welcomed us like old friends and told us his family had lived in that building for seven generations. Victor was the cook that night, and he headed straight to the kitchen to whip up our meals.

Victor and his son Mark rolled out the red carpet. They entertained us with stories, served up hearty pub food, and even gifted us a chunk of turf (never call it peat in Ireland) to burn when we got back to the Airbnb. 

Later, we found a bag of turf leaning against the door. Victor and Mark had called the Airbnb owner to make sure we were allowed to burn it. The Airbnb owner left it for us. Hospitality level: eleven out of ten.

We also explored Glenveagh National Park, often called the jewel in the heart of Donegal. Just one thing—bring midge spray. They sell “Avon Skin So Soft” in the gift shop, and let’s just say… it didn’t work.

And if you’re anywhere near Letterkenny, do not miss Kinnegar Brewing. Trust me on this one. The staff are as fabulous as the beers. A Texas-inspired BBQ truck out back made for a great meal, topped off with delicious brews.

We have more photos of the Letterkenny and Donegal area in our gallery. 

Portrush

Our final stop before heading back to Dublin was Portrush. Oh—and one last “L” road adventure before arriving in Portrush: over the Gap of Mamore in County Donegal’s Inishowen Peninsula. The view was spectacular. And this time, since we weren’t actively fearing for our lives, we even managed to take a video.

Afterward, we stretched our legs with a short walk up Glenevin Valley to see Glenevin Waterfall—a peaceful little break with big payoff.

At Malin Head, the northernmost point of Ireland, Chuck and Angie braved the wind and hiked out to Hell’s Hole. Let me tell you, the wind was wild. Think hair-whipping, coat-flapping, blow you off the side cliff wind. Chuck reported back that the views are amazing and worth the thrashing of the wind.

One of our best last-minute decisions was stopping at the Grianan of Aileach, an ancient stone fort off the beaten path. I’m pretty sure we were driving on a farm lane to get there. I found a crumpled slip of paper tucked between the seats that said:

“The view from the stone fort of Aileach is breathtaking.”

They weren’t kidding.

And just when we thought we were out of luck with timing, the Foyle Ferry in Greencastle was sitting there, waiting for us. It was as if Chuck had called ahead; he hadn’t. So thanks, Pascal (remember him from the Sligo Tourist Office?), for the tip to take the ferry and skip driving through Derry.

Our Airbnb sat just outside of town with a spectacular view of the North Sea and Royal Portrush Golf Club, host of the upcoming 153rd Open in July 2025. Not bad for our last leg.

Naturally, if there’s a castle, we stop. We could practically see Dunluce Castle from our Airbnb. Ghostly and dramatic, it looked like something out of a fantasy novel.  

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is a hard pass for me, unless you really love rope bridges and you’re a superfan of “How to Train Your Dragon.” I’m fairly certain it was filmed there, and if not, it should have been.

If you do go that way, at least stop at Fullerton Arms. Great food and wonderful hospitality.

Our trip to Ireland didn’t radically change my life, but it deepened my appreciation for the culture and gave me a fresh perspective on a place I thought I already knew. Some of that shift came simply from being there, seeing with my own eyes what had only existed in pictures. 

Take Giant’s Causeway, for example. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986, it’s every bit the photo magnet it’s hyped up to be.

Rick Steves suggested arriving early, right when the park opens, and booking tickets online to avoid the tour bus rush. While doing that, Chuck noticed an option to add a cliff walk with Away A Wee Walking Tours. We took a chance and signed up.

The views were stunning, but what made the experience unforgettable was Paul, our tour guide and master storyteller. He brought the landscape to life in a way that no brochure ever could. I wouldn’t call it life-changing, but it was definitely one of the highlights of the entire trip.

Then came The Dark Hedges. Total photo-op territory. I’m not a “Thronie” (aka a die-hard Game of Thrones fan), but even I was glad we stopped. Over 200 years ago, the Stuart family planted 150 beech trees along the avenue to their estate. Little did they know they were creating a future Instagram pilgrimage site for fantasy fans and tree nerds alike.

We have more photos of Portrush in Northern Ireland in our gallery. 

What Ireland Left With Us

There were no grand revelations, no soul-searching epiphanies, but honestly, the joy was in the small stuff. Conversations with other Americans in noisy pubs. The surprise of finding cows blocking the road. A spontaneous detour that turned into a trip highlight. The kind of moments that don’t look like much in photos but feel like everything when you’re in them.

And then there was Chuck, our tour guide. He isn’t Rick Steves, but he’s a wizard of travel in his own right. Cheers to you, Chuck, for navigating us down narrow roads (and yes, making the occasional wrong turn). If you’re wondering whether he’s a fabulous travel planner, the answer is yes.

And if you’re wondering whether the trek to Ireland is worth the trip? Absolutely yes.

Pictures

As I mentioned earlier, we have hundreds of pictures in our galleries. Take a look and let us know what you think. 

• Dublin Photo Gallery. 
• Waterford and Kinsale Gallery 
• Dingle Gallery
• Galway Gallery 
• Sligo Gallery
• Letterkenny and Donegal area Gallery
• Portrush in Northern Ireland Gallery

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