After an epic 171-mile walk through Italy, it was time to switch gears and explore the majestic city of water, Venice.

Returning to Venice

During our trip to Italy in 2023, we took an overnight trip to Venice and froze. It was the beginning of February, which meant that the crowds were low and so was the temperature. Not quite Michigan cold, but cold enough that we didn’t want to spend a lot of time outdoors. We took a bone-chilling gondola ride and sprinted through the major tourist attractions of the Piazza San Marco, St. Mark’s Basilica and Campanile, Bridge of Sighs, Doge’s Palace, and the Rialto Bridge. We’d checked these marvels off our list, but did not experience all this city had to offer.

Since we were back in Italy for a 171-mile walk along the Way of St. Francis, we decided to add in a few days and spend some quality time in Venice. Our plan was to see the city in more detail without retracing our earlier steps, and to visit the islands of Murano and Burano. As we would be there in October, we had high hopes for warmer temperatures.

Arriving in San Polo

The day after receiving our testimonial at the Vatican for completing our pilgrimage along the Way of St. Francis, we put away our hiking poles and climbed into first-class seats on a Frecciarossa high-speed train. The train station was a cacophony of voices, loudspeaker announcements, and spinning luggage wheels. I was struck by the size and quantity of luggage. I mean, some of these things would put the old steamer ship trunks to shame. Most of the people trying to hoist these behemoth bags on the train could barely lift them—so much for packing light. I’ll have to admit, I felt a little less guilty about my international carry-on, which was busting at the seams.

For accommodations, we found a fabulous apartment in the San Polo district. Venice has six historic districts or sestieri: San Marco, San Polo, Santa Croce, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, and Castello. Being in San Polo felt like a perfect location that was close to the action without being overwhelmed with throngs of humanity. It turned out to be a fantastic space. All the rooms were large, comfortable, and beautifully decorated with windows overlooking the canals that crisscrossed outside of the building.

Paolo, the Airbnb owner, met us at the train station, and we took a water taxi nearly to the door of the Airbnb. He showed us our lodging, offered suggestions for dinner, and even bought us a round of drinks. Now that is what I call being a super-host!

Walking with Genny

For our first full day in Venice, we booked a walking tour through Withlocals. We’ve used this service many times, and each one has been excellent. Our guide in Venice, Genny, was one of the best yet.

She met us near our accommodations in a small square, Campo San Polo. Since we had already visited the big tourist attractions, we asked Genny to give us a flavor of her city and perhaps visit some of the places we missed on our first trip, such as the Jewish Ghetto.

Genny expertly looped us through the sestieri of San Polo, Santa Croce, and Cannaregio (where the Jewish Ghetto is located). Along the way, she shared a cornucopia of Venetian history, architecture, and culture. We learned about the history of Venetian masks, giving folks the anonymity to go wild; the peepholes in the floor of casinos, allowing proprietors to see who was at the door below; and the bowls cut into the base of cisterns, which provided drinking water for cats brought in to eat the plague-carrying rats.

We stopped in at the Church of San Pantalon, which has the world’s largest painting on canvas by Giovanni Antonio Fumiani, The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St. Pantalon. For one euro, you can turn on the accent lights to see the painting in more detail. This gigantic artwork looks three-dimensional. Staring into this astonishing image reveals details upon details that can become a bit overwhelming.

Next, we visited the Ponte dei Pugni (Bridge of Punches). What started as perhaps a couple of people settling differences turned into all-out tag-team matches of mayhem. Footprints on the bridge mark where opponents would square off. These fights were typically low-key events. However, in 1705 things got out of hand as a full-scale deathmatch with knives and stones took place. The Doge stepped in, banning fighting on the bridge under punishment of mandatory military service.

The Jewish Ghetto in the Cannaregio sestiere was very interesting. Venice was the first city to isolate the Jewish merchants behind a guarded gate starting in 1516. Jews were restricted to only this area and had to remain behind the gates at night. These gates lasted until Napoleon, when they were torn down and burned in the square. However, Jews remained restricted in their movements by the Austrians until 1866, when Venice became part of a united Italy. Their freedom was sadly taken once again when Nazi Germany took over the city in 1943. The Allied Forces liberated the city in 1945. Today, it is a highly residential area that retains its Jewish heritage. 

During our visit to the Jewish Ghetto, we met artist Michal Meron at her Studio in Venice. She creates these delightfully vivid paintings of Jewish culture in Venice. Her work includes a fully illustrated Torah!

Our tour with Genny left us bursting with more knowledge than we could imagine and a better appreciation for the city of Venice. I could understand now why people would come back again and again, as there are so many facets to explore.

Exploring On Our Own

During the tour with Genny, we passed a few churches that she mentioned would be worth exploring on our own. So we did—you can never visit too many churches, right?

The first was one we’d walked past a half-dozen times, the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. Completed in 1396, this medieval church is known for its collection of master Venetian artwork. Entering this church, you are confronted with a staggering display of art. Not quite as overwhelming as St. Peter’s, but very close. 

We then made our way across the city to the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, the largest church in Venice. Construction was completed in 1343. This church is remarkable as it contains a Byzantine icon, Our Lady of Peace, which was brought to the church in 1349 from Constantinople.

Touring Murano and Burano

Our final day in Venice featured a tour of the islands of Murano and Burano. Our guide, Nicoletta, arranged a water taxi to take us first to Vetreria Venier, one of the largest glassworks on Murano. We were met at the docks of the glassworks and ushered inside for a glass-making demonstration. 

The glassblower moved with the practiced, elegant grace of a master craftsman. In one fluid movement after another, the glowing molten glass was transformed into a beautiful, one-of-a-kind pitcher. Effortlessly, he snared a blob of red-hot glass from the heat-shimmering furnace and began shaping. We were asked what color we would like and responded with blue. The master then rolled the super-heated material in cobalt. Heating the glass again, it changed from purple to deep ocean blue as the craftsman worked with a tool to pull and press the glass into the shape of a horse. All this took only a few minutes, and two works had been created.

After the demonstration, we were led into a 24-room showcase of glassworks. Everything and anything you can imagine was made from glass. From glassware to chandeliers, to sculptures, to a mosaic picture of Freddie Mercury, you name it, Venier could make it. Unfortunately, no photography was allowed, so you’ll have to go see for yourself.

From Murano, we took a water taxi to the island of Burano. With row after row of colorful homes, you get why this place is an Instagram magnet. What had been a quiet fishing village is now mainly artisan and tourist shops. Besides the colorful homes, Burano is known for lace. We stopped into a shop called Emilia, which has a history of making lace dating back to 1890. Inside, we watched a lace-making demonstration. A work of lace requires seven women, as each one specializes in a particular threading pattern. They work from a pattern on paper, with each person adding their particular stitch to the overall pattern. It is extremely labor-intensive, but the results are stunningly detailed.

While waiting for the next vaporetto (basically a water bus), we strolled the vineyards and gardens of Venissa. Located a short walk across a bridge to the island of Mazzorbo, Venissa is a high-end winery and resort specializing in growing and producing wine from the native lagoon grapes called Dorona di Venezia. We didn’t have the cash or the time to try the wine or visit their Michelin-star restaurant, but it was nice to stroll through the property while waiting for the bus.

More Photos of Venice

Venice is an amazing place to visit. If you go, we highly recommend Paolo’s apartment in San Polo and a walking tour with Genny. As usual, we have a bunch more photos from our trip in the gallery.

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